Basic Sewing Skills Playlist

In this video lesson, you will learn in detail, the correct technique for using an open-ended tailor's thimble. This is the most fundamental and important skill of bespoke tailoring. Your thimble will be your most important tool for hand sewing. You must master using it. Practice each step as shown in the video for 10-15 minutes a day for a week.

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A good needle and thimble technique reduces stress on your finger joint. It helps you to sew fast without losing precision.

This video lesson explains how to fasten your thread when starting or ending a line of hand sewing with any thread. There are several methods. Knowing all of them gives you a range of options to choose from.

In this video lesson, you will learn to do a basic running-stitch by hand.

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A running-stitch follows a simple straight or curved line with a single thread.  It's often used as a temporary stitch to hold multiple layers together while they are permanently being sewn. It helps to reduce movement between the layers and is best done with a soft cotton basting thread.

In this video lesson, you will learn to do a raw edge running-stitch by hand.

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This stitch allows you to join two layers while covering and holding down the raw edge of the top layer. It is often used to secure layers that are applied with a raw edge such as felt under collars on a jacket.

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The raw edge running-stitch allows you to use raw edges without the need to fold them over or to add seam allowances. It saves you fabric and reduces bulk.

In this video lesson, you will learn to do a felling-stitch by hand.

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A felling stitch is used by tailors and finishers to sew folded seams by hand. It's often used to sew linings or other folded edges.

In this video lesson, you will learn to do a full and half back-stitch.

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Before sewing machines where invented, the back stitch was the main stitch for securing seams, including pocket bags! In fact, many of the first sewing machines where designed to replicate a back-stitch.

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Tailors still use it for producing strong seams by hand in areas such as trouser seats, shoulder seams, sleeves, collars and pockets. One of its benefits is that it doesn't completely unravel when one of its stitches break.

In this video lesson, you will learn to do a cross-stitch.

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A cross-stitch can be both decorative or functional or both. It is similar to the raw edge running-stitch. The difference in the two is that a cross-stitch allows for more movement between the secured layers while a raw edge running-stitch allows none.

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By adjusting your stitch length and bite size, you can control the amount of movement allowed between the layers.

In this video lesson you will learn to do a side-stitch.

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A side-stitch is often used to hold down the edges of a garment and prevent these from puffing up when in contact with humid weather. For example, jackets that don't have a side stitch, won't look crisp. They will look unfinished and bulky.

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The side-stitch can either be done as a running-stitch or a half back-stitch.

Why is it not called an edge-stitch? It can be and sometimes is. The word side and edge are synonyms.

In this video lesson you will learn what a padding stitch is and how to do it.

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A padding stitch is a hallmark of bespoke tailoring. It signals 'hand made suit' in an instant. It is often misunderstood. This video explains it in detail.

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Many students are told that the padding stitch shapes the lapel into a roll.

This is nonsense. The stitch only holds the layers together. What creates the roll of the lapel is a concept called Relative Layer Length.

In this video lesson you will learn what a serge-stitch is and how to do it.

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A serge-stitch is also referred to as a blanket-stitch. It is a series of loops that keep a raw edge protected and prevent fraying. It's essentially over-locking by hand.

In this video lesson you will learn how to do an up and down stitch and when to use it.

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An up and down stitch allows you to sew densely on thick layers. Tailored garments are often thick. Fine needles can't easily go through them and if they do, their bites won't be very big. An up and down stitch allows your stitch length and bite size to be as small as possible without running the risk of not catching the layers underneath.

In this video lesson you will learn how to do a mark-stitch AKA tailor-tack.

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Mark-stitching is used to transfer chalk lines from the top layer to the bottom layer. Instead of chalking all sides of both fabric layers, the tailor chalks one side and runs a soft fibrous thread through all layers. The layers are then carefully opened and the threads on the insides of the fabric are cut.

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Mark-stitching is one of your first jobs when starting your apprenticeship. Be careful not to cut the fabric!

In this video lesson you will learn what a draw-stitch is and how to do one.

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It's traditionally used for joining the gorge of the top-collar and lapel. It draws two folded edges together and makes seam repairs possible from the outside.

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It is sometimes referred to as a ladder-stitch. When the stitch is displayed as a schematic, the trajectory of the tread looks like a ladder.

In this video lesson you will learn how to do a bar-tack.

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A bar-tack is both decorative and functional. It strengthens pocket corners, trouser fly's or any area where multiple layers are joined together and are under heavy stress.

In this video lesson you will learn what a D-tack is and how to do one.

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Similar to a bar-tack, the purpose of the D-tack is to reinforce an area, usually the corners of jetted pockets. It's essentially an up and down stitch in the shape of the letter D. It holds the fabric in place around jetted pockets and prevents movement in those areas which would lead to fraying.

In this video lesson you will learn how a stitch can be used to gather fabric on a single or multiple layers.

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Gathers are essential to creating shape with fabric. Gathers can be compressed to create positive surface curves as described in this lesson.

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They can also be pressed flat and turn into pleats. Learning to control fabric gathers is one of the most important skills a bespoke tailor can develop.