Hi Everyone,
Let me start off by wishing everyone a happy new year!
I wanted to show a tool I use sometimes for getting the depth of a customer's arm scye but can also be used to also get some measures that can be useful in determining the front and back balance while drafting patterns. In the Photo version the tool is about 3.5 inches at it's tallest height and 5 inches at it's widest, I've made it out of a thick card but plan on moving it over to thick leather for a nicer finish as it currently looks a bit chaotic and most clients would likely shriek if they saw this.
Features of Device:
- A long elastic ribbon attached to the solid tool that wraps around the model's chest and back round to the tool again horizontally
- A string/ smaller elastic ribbon designed to wrap over the should and onto the back of the device in order to hold the tool close to the scye, may be attached to their shirt with a safety pin to keep from falling off
Notes:
When placing the tool under their armpit make sure that it's relatively snug and the tall edge is running mostly in a straight line to the ground and the wider portion is cupping nicely. When wrapping the elastic round make sure it's both snug and running straight on the back and front.
When measuring the scye depth from the back neck point, I tend to measure to the top of the elastic edge not the bottom as it may result in too deep of an armhole. In addition to measuring points, when taking the front and back balance I like to take it from where the shoulder line would be right where it meets the neck.
It's a fairly eccentric tool that can also be replicated by just using an elastic ribbon wide enough to go round the model and making sure it fits properly under each armpit. Another method is by using a tape measure and going "over and under" the shoulder and armpits and pinning where the tape meets itself on the back (I've included a video at the very bottom of this technique I also use for determining scye depth)
Very crude Paint drawing of how the device works forgive my lack of CAD skills haha.
Scye Depth
side shot
Front Balance
Back Balance
My Alternative method for finding the scye depth with a tape measure
I hope this has been useful/interesting please let me know what you think and if you have any feedback at all on how I could improve the device.
Cheers,
Kai😁
Thanks for clarifying that Kai.
It seems to me that this alternative method has the risk of creating an armhole that's too high, since the tape sits very tightly in the armhole.
Do you lower this point on the CB after the tape is wrapped around the person?
I quite like the idea of anchor points and think it's a good idea to measure the depth of scye from the nape. There must however be an accurate method in place for getting the shoulder angle + pad.
Good work on the illustrations. They are very clear.
Thank You.
ps. Looking "technical" is only a pro for the imposter😄
Reza
International School of Tailoring