Apologies. I have looked around the forum but I am a slow reader! I'm sure you will have answered this somewhere.....Are inlay and seam allowance different, with inlay a varied amount added outside the card pattern piece edges (shown by the mark lines) and seam allowance (and therefore the sewing li

Hello everyone! And a special thank you for all the resources I have found here (and of course on youtube) I am going to be making two overcoats out of particularly heavy wool, in the range of 900g per metre. I am going to make one greatcoat (out of boiled wool) and one longer and more feminine coa

Hello Reza, thank you for your wonderful teaching videos, I found them because I was looking for videos on how to make a waistcoat. I have watched many of them and I am learning so much, your teaching is wonderfully clear, you take the necessary time to explain and show how and I truly enjoy your wa

Hey Reza, can you explain the purpose of the Step found at the top of the Sleeve Head.

Using the bundle for the traditional model, I have now come to the stage where the undercollar is attached to the jacket. Your instructions were pretty good, but my result is not up to my standards. After finishing lesson 31, I noticed some severe issues with the back where the under collar is attac

Now that I'm studying tailoring, I've noticed things I hadn't even looked at before, like how some stitches seem to squeeze the fabric, particularly on knits. It got me thinking, and that lead me to a question that sounds a little stupid; do thread manufacturers shrink the thread before shipping it?

Does anyone know the technical purpose of a side-body panel on a suit coat? I understand that is substitutes the requirement for a dart in the middle of the cloth with instead having curves on either side just as the side-seams of trousers have. One imagines that this provides a greater opportunity

Hello Reza, While drafting the jacket pattern how to determine the size of the front chest dart? Do you determine the size of the dart based on the chest to waist ratio? If that's the case then what about the corpulent figure where the waist is bigger than the chest?

When a tailor has an order to make several identical suits for the same customer, and all the fabric has been cut, would you assemble one suit at a time or work on all three at the same time? If you're read my previous post, you know I'm applying the tailoring skills I've learned here to "dress" se

Hi Reza, Thank you so much for the course. I've learnt so much already. I'm really grateful for all the hard work you must have already put into this project I had intended to start my tailoring journey with some trousers before moving onto a waistcoat. I just wondered if you intended to expand yo

I have read many explanations on this theme on different sites, but i have never actualy got it. I know that as a part of the disscusion about jacket’s balance, often there are used terms as a straightening and crookening, which has something to do with a “neck neckpoint” and that there are more typ

I've heard that some houses such as Anderson and Sheppard tend to use 2 layers of canvas, just one layer of body canvas and one layer of chest canvas. Other houses, however, such as Gieves and Hawkes lean toward 4 layers or more. How are more layer inserted into the interfacing? Are they all sewn t

Hey everyone, curious if anyone can fill me in on how many yards of the orange linen fabric comes in the purple box? Curious so I can get to know how much 1 yard of fabric is ! Thanks in advance :)

I'm not ready to purchase an expensive thimble, but the inexpensive thimbles I've tried aren't working well or at all. I tried Dritz and Lacis. Both were really thin and too deep (came down to the knuckle). I tried a Hisew Stainless Steel and Brass Thimbles Set, and it is okay, but it's really thick

Could we find togheter 3-4 basic colors to have for a serger machine to start making classic men trousers and suits? A Gutermann color number would be a good reference for everybody I think. They could be of course polyvalent, a good compromise in order to invest not much money in it. Thanks a lo

Hello everyone, hope you're doing great by this new year ! My today's weird technical question is about what we call the lapel "roll". To give a brief definition, it is the fact that the base of the lapel is not pressed against the body of the coat but is rolling far from the coat front. I tried to

I really enjoyed watching the jacket videos. Now that my sewing skills have improved, I'm thinking about taking that project on, but I'd rather wait until all the videos are available.

I'm working with a bull denim that loves to fray. I practice the gentle fabric handling techniques demonstrated in the videos, but at some point, two pieces are matched, pinned, and sewn together, and the fabric will fray. I've tried Fray Check around the edges of each cut piece. I've also used my o

Hello everyone, I am very happy to see you once again. At the moment, I'm trying to understand as precisely as possible all the elements of jacket pattern-making. Because I think it's much harder and more time-consuming to get it right if you don't understand what you're doing. I haven't found any

hi Reza, I'm trying to download the patterns, unfortunately I can't get the pagoda. should i do something specific? I can't manage either separately or both models in the same download. I don't know if you have had this problem reported by someone else. Otherwise, thank you very much and I am impres

If my womens jacket or coat pattern has shoulder princess seams in the forepart how would I add a wedge in the shoulder area in the underlying canvas? When developing the pattern and adding a shoulder princess seam to a basic bodice block the princess seam splits the bodice into panels and is effec

I remember that in one of the first lessons clearly opted for polyester for sewing . Main reason for that is longlivity of the seams and the entire garment. Traditional tailors opting for cotton thread. Is there an other reason for than tradition? When you sew a garment for example in Dupion silk i

I finally built the Tables, Tablestand and Roll hanger (for Interfacings and Draftingpapers) Now looking to source the stuff to cover my Tables. Felt and moleskin are recommended by @reza if I remember correctly? Are there alternative options like tuchloden for excample?

Hi Reza, I am thinking about buying a tailors iron. So far I have used a domestic steam iron with a weight of approx. 900g. When I crease a trouser leg, which is made of wool fabric, I can do this with a lot of steam and pressing with a clapper board. However, the crease will not stay for very long.

After viewing the latest lesson on "How to base tailored sleeves" I thought about the ways I was thought sleeve insertion in textile school and how we used to gather the sleeve run by running two parallel stitch lines using the longest stitch length on the machine and then gathering it before bastin

Hello Reza, Luckily, I got the bundle for the traiditional model as Christmas present, and I am following your instructions along since then. You said in one of you canvassing videos that the direction of the padding stitches on the canvas would not matter and in a later video that a padding stitch

This question might sound a little screwy, so I'll explain: Let's say you have three pieces of fabric. Two pieces are the same shape and sewn together so that one becomes the lining of the other. The outside edge is stitched, the fabric is flipped right-side-out, and top stitched. The third piece of

Sorry for the overly wordy question. What I'm asking is, if you are sewing a long rectangle to the perimeter of an oval so that the oval remains flat on the table and the rectangle stands up, can you use an iron to stretch the edge of the rectangle so you don't have to cut notches in the seam allowa

Hi Reza, This might sound like a stupid question, when we talk about bespoke suit, do you mean that the suit is completely sewn by hand? I've read somewhere that italians do it. Is it really feasible to do something like that? And what kind of hand stitch would replace the machine stitches? PS: