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NeedleNomad

Apr 12

Edited: 5d

Help! I'm stuck. How do I correct this Centre Back panel of the Traditional Jacket? (LESSON 19)

in Questions

Hi!

I'm currently on lesson 19 (preparing front back and sleeves) and have stumbled upon an error in the prepping of the CB.

This is the centre back basted at the seamline up to the beginning of the vent.

When opened up, the chest lines and hip lines are not in a straight line, but rather meeting at an angle. I observed from you version that it opened up like a book, with the 2 panels mirroring eachother, and the lines completely straight.

When the hiplines WERE brought to alignment, I was left with this bulge. When the bulge was straightened out, the panel sat diagonally, overlapping the vent line.

My actions to troubleshoot so far:

I reprinted and carefully reassembled the paper pattern. This turned out to be in the same proportion as the one originally made, so this was ruled out as being my issue. I carefully redid Lesson 9 (drafting and cutting traditional jacket). The results turned out the same.

I feel stumped, what could I be doing wrong?

Thank you in advance

2 comments

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Comments (2)

David Salinas

5d

That bulge is fine, it is supposed to be the saddle like effect on the human body spine.

If that bulge wasn’t there, that means that seam has no business being there, if you think about it. A seam is there to create shape.

About the chest lines meeting in an angle, you can jump to the last lesson of module one (the fitting) and you’ll see that those lines would meet straight if there wasn’t any waist suppression on the CB, but since there is some suppression, it meets in an angle. It is completely normal.

It’s looking great so far.

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NeedleNomad

3d

Replying to

Hi David,

You've cleared my confusion!

I redistributed the bulge and saw the saddle effect you were reffering to. You made a good point about the purpose of the seam, I didn't think about that. Having watched the fitting video now, I see it's there to accommodate for the dips and curve of the spine in this case.

Thinking about it now, the slanted chestline accommodates for the male V torso, that the coat has to wrap around. You mentioned is called 'waist suppression'.

Thank you~~

Edited

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