I've heard that some houses such as Anderson and Sheppard tend to use 2 layers of canvas, just one layer of body canvas and one layer of chest canvas. Other houses, however, such as Gieves and Hawkes lean toward 4 layers or more.
How are more layer inserted into the interfacing? Are they all sewn together and layered parallel, or are some of them slightly on the bias to provide added structure?
What are the benefits/drawbacks of adding in more canvassing?
Thank you, have a wonderful day and happy sewing :)
Hello Carl,
the extra layers are also connected by padding stitches. Anderson & Sherppard is known for soft tailoring introduced by the Dutch tailor Frederiek Scholten. They use littel or no shoulder pads and a very roomy cut. Other houses come from a more militay tradition and these canvases are more sturctured and heavy padded to achief the wanted look. You can see the differences by comparing the traditional model with the pagode model. The pagoda model needs also more layers of canvases to achief the silouette.
Reading advise: The Savile Row Suit by Patrick Grand.