Hello Reza,
While drafting the jacket pattern how to determine the size of the front chest dart? Do you determine the size of the dart based on the chest to waist ratio? If that's the case then what about the corpulent figure where the waist is bigger than the chest?
Hello! I have a general rule that I use when working for women or bigger chests.
I take two measures, one on the top part of the chest an other on the bigger part of the chest. The difference between those two measures is what I use as an intake for both front darts.
Let's say I have a upper chest measuring 90 cm and a full chest measuring 96, my intake would be 6 cm , 3cm each dart.
Hope this helps