Hello Reza,
While drafting the jacket pattern how to determine the size of the front chest dart? Do you determine the size of the dart based on the chest to waist ratio? If that's the case then what about the corpulent figure where the waist is bigger than the chest?
Hello! I have a general rule that I use when working for women or bigger chests.
I take two measures, one on the top part of the chest an other on the bigger part of the chest. The difference between those two measures is what I use as an intake for both front darts.
Let's say I have a upper chest measuring 90 cm and a full chest measuring 96, my intake would be 6 cm , 3cm each dart.
Hope this helps
If you've read any of my posts, you know I don't have an answer 😁 but your question got me thinking. 🤔 Ratios and formulas seem to be based on or in relation to a basic, anatomically correct, human being in good health. Reza's response makes sense, if I'm understanding the process correctly, in that the cut of the fabric gives the garment its basic shape while darts and wedges add a convex or concave bow that can't be achieved by iron work alone. Still, Mohammed implies you have to start from somewhere, and in that regard, I would imagine a tailor has to start from something or somewhere. Ratios sound like the right place.
I'm an American. I've been fat and thin again and again, so please don't take this as jugemental or fat-bashing, but if the ratios and patterns produced from them are based on a healthy, hourglass shape, I suspect an American tailor spends a lot of time adding meat to the bone. Reza often mentions exceptions to the rule or at least considerations and modifications you may need to make to a dart or stitch line to get the garment to lay properly; specifically, I'm thinking of the line between the shoulder and top of the collar stand or the fold line of the lapel so that it leads to the top button.
Mohammed's question then, at least for me, starts when an avocado shaped customer comes into your shop. A dart might help, but a hatchet or axe might be a better choice.
Hello Mohammed,
I recommend going through lesson 14 on darts for this.
Darts create volume. More volume = bigger dart. But there are also limits to their size based on material, style and construction. The average dart has a total intake of 3/8" (1cm).
Please do the excersises of lesson 14. You will get to the right answer through them for your project and needs.
Reza
International School of Tailoring