Hi Reza, In Roberto Cabreras book on tailoring, he pad stitches on the body canvas side with the 'bite' stitches being on the domette side. Is it still done this way also.
A secound question please. What is the minimum weight of a fabric you could go down to for a double breasted jacket. Is 300g too low?
Thnx for your time.
Ross.
Hello Ross,
This method was done as the body canvas was held in a roll while being padded. As I mentioned previously in the lessons, though the body canvas wrappes around the body, the main shape comes from the darts. Relative Layer Length is not what is required. Therefore, I don't recommend this at all. If you do proceed with this old method, and your canvas flattens just a bit, you will have a lot of bubbles which can completely ruin the smoothness of your chest area.
I encourage making a small sample for yourself to try it out. It will deepen your understanding.
Secondly, It may work on very heavy cloths, but most of the time, the threads will show through after a heavy press which again is not desirable.
You can make a Double Breasted jacket with any weight. It all depends on the design, interlinings and skills involved :)
I always say: If you're a skilled tailor, you should be able to make a jacket with a bin bag.
Reza
International School of Tailoring.