After viewing the latest lesson on "How to base tailored sleeves" I thought about the ways I was thought sleeve insertion in textile school and how we used to gather the sleeve run by running two parallel stitch lines using the longest stitch length on the machine and then gathering it before basting it to the armscye (and then compressing the cloth). I found this method relatively easy to use but what are the pros and cons of each method? I could imagine that problems might occur when utilizing this method while having inlays on the sleeve crown. When I was a intern at a tailoring shop and asked the cutter about this, he simply said "we don't do that here" without much more of an explanation. I'm curious about your thoughts on this!
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Dear fellow tailor,
Mowgli and I must raise £100,000 by 1 October 2025 to start our "Alterations Video Library" project. We need your support today.
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First off, your boss's response is exactly what Reza talked about in his classes, reference a tailor shop being single minded and not always open to experimentation or change.
I haven't watched the sleeve lessons yet, but this sounds like a great idea, as long as the fabric used lends itself to shrinking. I remember the gathering lesson, and I'm assuming that's part of this technique, but are you saying you "slide" the fabric along the thread until it's curved then do something to the seam allowance that causes JUST the seam allowance to shrink? If so, I'd love to hear about it.
That method is excellent and in fact will be used in setting the final sleeves of our Pagoda Model in Module 2 :)
Reza
International School of Tailoring