Using the bundle for the traditional model, I have now come to the stage where the undercollar is attached to the jacket. Your instructions were pretty good, but my result is not up to my standards.
After finishing lesson 31, I noticed some severe issues with the back where the under collar is attached.
When I lift the jacket at the shoulder pads and look at the colloar from behind, I noticed some small vertical folds moving to under the collar fall, as if I had eased frabric in. However, when I flip the fall up to see how the stand is attached, all looks good.
Still holding the jacket in the air and looking from the side, I noticed that the collar at the back drops down as if there was too much fabric at the back. This leads to my thrid point.
When I try the jacket on (apparendlty I have a similar size than you Reeza), the collar looks great. Everything you mentioned in your video how to evaluate the undercollar seems to be ok. However, at at back right under the collar fall I have a big horizonal fold from one shoulder to the other.
So my questions are, have I done something completely wrong, shall I take the collar apart again and try again? Is the fold at the back below the collar fall a result from the pattern specifically designed for you?
I am happy to post a photo if you wish.
Thank you very much for your help.
With best regards
Klaus
Hi Bill,
Reza told me that this is a fitting issue and that I should not worry about that. So I continued to attach the sleeves. I am now curious to see how the fitting of this will be done.
Best
Klaus
Hey Klaus,
Just wondering how your neck issue came out? I didn't notice it until now, but lots of coats have a hump of fabric just under the bottom edge of the collar, especially when seated or reaching forward. It seems to me that the real problem is that the angle of the wearer's neck changes in relation to the upper back.
I wonder if there isn't a way to add a double wedge (horizontally elongated) piece of stretch fabric on top of the collar stand that would pull the back part as needed to keep the lower neck fabric flat?
Just a thought.
That jacket looks great Krause. I haven't started yet, as I'm still learning stitching ðĪŠ but I can understand why you came to your conclusion about the problem. Looking at your pictures, I was thinking it might be a relative length issue...meaning, if you stitch two or three layers of fabric together, with the fabric laying flat, then fold it over, parallel to the stitching, the layer facing up would pucker, just the way it looks in the pictures. Again, that's the way I saw it.
I'm glad you shared your "problem," as if and when it happened to me, I would have jumped right in to taking it apart.
Thanks for clearing this up Reza. I'm looking forward to seeing the fitting ðð
You have done excellent.
There are no issues that you should worry about.
The surplus underneath the collar is a fitting issue, not a construction one.
Ignore this as this pattern is made for me. Pretend you're making this for me as your customer. In the last lesson of Module 1, you'll see the jacket on me and we'll be making some changes in the lesson, to simulate a brief fitting session.
Once again, well done!
Reza
International School of Tailoring
Hello Reza,
Thank you for looking into this. I have attached a few fotos which should better demonstrate what kind of problem I have. The fold I mentioned in my last question are shown in pictures 1 and 2. The undercollar itself in pictures 3 and 4 and the entire collar from the front on picture 5. I think 1-4 are all related to the same cause. I looks as if there is too much fabric at the neck and if the fold wants to move upward. What do you think?
Thank you very much for your help.
Best regards
Klaus
Hello Klaus!
Well done on getting to the collar stage so quickly.
Please add photos. Words on their own are never practical for troubleshooting.
Looking forward to see your results :)
Reza
International School of Tailoring