Does anyone know the technical purpose of a side-body panel on a suit coat? I understand that is substitutes the requirement for a dart in the middle of the cloth with instead having curves on either side just as the side-seams of trousers have.
One imagines that this provides a greater opportunity to shape the cloth, perhaps? That is merely hypothetical and speculative, however, and I would be truly appreciative if someone were to enlighten me. I'd also be terribly grateful if the areas of employment would also be highlighted - for example, are they better suited to gentlemen with a very narrow waist and large chest/thin individuals (where a lot more waist suppression is required for optimal drape). On a similar notes, why is it that in Scholte's famous drape cut method - one of the ingredients was the absence of a side body panel. What did this give to that famous drape? Thank you so very much indeed for taking the time to contemplate an answer, wishing you all a wonderful day, -Carl
After the brilliant contributions you've each made followed by countless enjoyable hours delving deep into all sorts of books on pattern theory (and a few toile tests) - I've finally ascertained both the purpose of the panel and how to communicate it in a way that should hopefully prove beneficial to anyone who finds this thread and wishes for a blunt and clear answer. So, here it is: The Side Body Panel: Here, shaping is achieved by edge to fold transfer (See Reza's lesson 18 which specialises in this). Pro - As the shaping occurs from the base of the panel all the way to the top, much better shaping can be achieved. This benefit of closer shaping is why all body-coat patterns (tailcoats, frock coats, etc.) use a side body panel. Con - The side body panel provides more extreme waist suppression resulting in a less curvaceous and more millitaristic shape (which may be desirable!). Notice in the attached image the full base to top shaping and the curvature from the base of the panel all the way to the top.
The One-Piece Front:Here, shaping is achieved by darts. Pro - This is a very elegant option as it curves very attractively to the form creating a much softer and curvaceous waist suppression. This is why this format was preferred by the inventor of the drape cut - Scholte. Con - As the dart is limited to a certain area, shape can only be achieved in that area, and if the dart is made too big then the fabric will look deformed, and perhaps even pucker! Notice in the attached image the lack of opportunity for shaping indicated by the limited height of the darts:
First of all, a big thank you to @Gerry Paton and @Bill Davis for the answers. You are both right.
Now to @Carl Trotter
The best answer will occur to you by watching and doing the last three exercises in Lesson 14 - Darts & Wedges
No amount of my commenting can beat the neurological connections that you'll make after those three. Your answer will be set for good.
As for Scholte's "famous" drape cut method, you can approach this question from many views.
I'll consisely present two: 1. Seems to me like a way to simplify production while marketing it as something unique. This is called commercial innovation. It is an innovation that happens in sales instead of product design. The purpose is to hack the human perception of something instead of factually "improving" the thing itself. In this case, it has been done brilliantly. Instead of saying "we have decided to put less work in our coats" they said "we have designed a new cut: The Drape Cut".
2. The under-arm dart does still shape the side of the body and has the same function as that of a separate panel. The only difference is that the shape stops at the hip and can't continue below them. It's perfectly valid technically when used in the right context. Since these jackets where used for men with narrow hips, they worked well and still do.
Reza
International School of Tailoring
I just replied to Gerry, and it git me thinking 🙄 I know, not again. 😫😁
I'm one of those fat/thin/fat people who's size (girth) changes regularly. I've lost and gained over a hundred pounds three times. I'm guessing a tailor would have an easier time altering a jacket with a side panel, since you'd have a seam allowance from one end of the seam to the other, unlike a dart.
Just a thought.
In theory, it's another seam to adjust. So yes, it's possible to get a more fitted look with a panel than with darts. The latter tend to be associated with a looser, sometimes boxier, fit. Hence their inclusion in the drape cut.
In reality, many tailors take a 'set and forget' approach to the front seam of a panel, making the above argument reduntant. However, panels still have their advantages. It's easier to match patterned cloth with a seam. When sewing a dart, you're largely running blind because the fold of the dart prevents you from seeing if everything is nicely aligned. I'm not a coat maker, but I routinely put darts in the back of shirts and in order to get accuracy with checks or horizontal stripes, each dart has to be meticulously basted beforehand. Matching the side seams is a doddle by comparison.
Also, sewing asymmetric seams is easier than sewing asymmetric darts, so in theory there's more scope for shaping.
Again, I'm not a coat maker, so will be interested in Reza's take on things.
Hey Carl, I don't have an answer, but your question got me thinking. I wonder if the fabric might dictate some of the decision making as well, when it comes to side panels. I'm thinking about stripes and checks. Lining up a front piece with a back piece sounds tricky to me, but if you added another piece in between, that's got to be really difficult to keep everything aligned. Just a thought.