Does anyone know the technical purpose of a side-body panel on a suit coat? I understand that is substitutes the requirement for a dart in the middle of the cloth with instead having curves on either side just as the side-seams of trousers have.
One imagines that this provides a greater opportunity to shape the cloth, perhaps? That is merely hypothetical and speculative, however, and I would be truly appreciative if someone were to enlighten me. I'd also be terribly grateful if the areas of employment would also be highlighted - for example, are they better suited to gentlemen with a very narrow waist and large chest/thin individuals (where a lot more waist suppression is required for optimal drape). On a similar notes, why is it that in Scholte's famous drape cut method - one of the ingredients was the absence of a side body panel. What did this give to that famous drape? Thank you so very much indeed for taking the time to contemplate an answer, wishing you all a wonderful day, -Carl
After the brilliant contributions you've each made followed by countless enjoyable hours delving deep into all sorts of books on pattern theory (and a few toile tests) - I've finally ascertained both the purpose of the panel and how to communicate it in a way that should hopefully prove beneficial to anyone who finds this thread and wishes for a blunt and clear answer. So, here it is: The Side Body Panel: Here, shaping is achieved by edge to fold transfer (See Reza's lesson 18 which specialises in this). Pro - As the shaping occurs from the base of the panel all the way to the top, much better shaping can be achieved. This benefit of closer shaping is why all body-coat patterns (tailcoats, frock coats, etc.) use a side body panel. Con - The side body panel provides more extreme waist suppression resulting in a less curvaceous and more millitaristic shape (which may be desirable!). Notice in the attached image the full base to top shaping and the curvature from the base of the panel all the way to the top.
The One-Piece Front:Here, shaping is achieved by darts. Pro - This is a very elegant option as it curves very attractively to the form creating a much softer and curvaceous waist suppression. This is why this format was preferred by the inventor of the drape cut - Scholte. Con - As the dart is limited to a certain area, shape can only be achieved in that area, and if the dart is made too big then the fabric will look deformed, and perhaps even pucker! Notice in the attached image the lack of opportunity for shaping indicated by the limited height of the darts: