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Dear fellow tailor,
I must raise £100,000 by 1 October 2025 to start our "Alterations Video Library" project. I need your support today.
This FREE library will have 200+ videos of individual alterations, indexed by seam. Each video shows a fitting problem, followed by the pattern corrections and final results with side-by-side comparisons.
It will teach you how to fit in minutes, not days. This will be the most important tailoring project of the century. And you can be part of it.
If you ever wanted to change the world, now is your chance. Please join me in making this project a reality.
Thank you,
Reza, Founder of International School of Tailoring
"This library will make fittings as easy as finding directions with GPS"
So far we have raised £
1170
Welcome to our forum!
Our forum is an extension of our online coat-making course. Here you can ask questions, discuss ideas and share your work with other students around the world.
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Hey Anna,
Just wondering how your collar went over at school?
Hey Anna, just wondering how your collar went over in class. I'll bet it was the best one of the bunch!
Okay Anna, Somehow my iPencil lost its pairing with my iPad, making me an iDiot ๐คช If you look at the picture, I'll take you through why I made the assumptions about your collar I did.
BLUE: this looked like a purposeful rolling or shifting of the sewn pieces so that the seam would only be visible from the inside of the garment and the top edge would have a nice smooth curve up and over the top of the collar. The top stitching, again from the back, seemed to be there to hold the "rolled" seam in place. The topstitches didn't appear to go all the way through the outer layer of fabric, and that made sense if you were trying to hide the stitching.
RED: I assume a Mandarin collar is essentially a collar stand without the collar ๐ค๐ In that case, there would be some kind of canvas in between the inner and outer fabric. The neck and canvas stitches would hold most of the collar upright, but it seemed to me you added something more robust where the collar meets in the front. In the picture, I see the imprint of an upside down capital L and thought it was rigid interfacing, or something ๐คจ
GREEN: This seems like a minor thing, but I envisioned the inner fabric being stitched to the inner fabric of the body, the outside fabric being stitched to the outside fabric, and you'd repeat the hidden topstitching in between the upper and lower seams.
Then I found out I was Overthinking the whole thing.๐คฃ๐คฃ๐คฃ Regardless, I still think you did a great job!
WOW...if? ๐ค๐
I hope I'm not bothering everyone with all my questions. Clearly, I have a lot to learn.
I think your collar came out beautifully...if that's the way it's supposed to look. I don't know. ๐คช Starting at the top, I really like the way you stitched the pieces together then rolled the seam inward and stitched it down so the seam and threads don't show on the outside. The seam does show on the vertical edges under the chin, and I'm assuming that's intentional because the fabric would really gather along the corners if you rolled them in as well. One thing that might be interesting would be if you ran a tiny line of piping just along that exposed front vertical seam. Just an idea.
In the middle, I'm wondering if you used any kind of canvas or interface to keep the collar upright?
At the bottom, I noticed one piece extends farther than the other. Obviously it's the result of rolling the seam along the top. I can think of a couple of reasons you might have left it that way, but I'm wondering if that was part of your plan.
I also noticed you are using muslin. Will the final garment be satin?
Looks like the start of another great project.