Burn this one principle of pattern cutting into your mind:
Shape must be created where shape is present.
Your pattern is essentially a shell. The shape of this shell must fit the flesh it is trying to cover.
Extreme example: If you try to fit the shell of a sphere on a cube, it won’t fit.
Nuanced example: Imagine you add a dart to your pattern to accommodate for a prominent breast. If this dart doesn't point to the breast at its most prominent point, you’re missing the mark. Your shell will not correctly reflect the shape it is trying to cover. Therefore, one of your most important tasks as a pattern cutter is to locate the correct position of seams and darts so that shape is created where shape is present.
This does not mean that you should always find the exact point of the breast and emphasise it. But you must know the consequences if you don't. Break the rules once you have mastered them.
The Neck Circle
The majority of pattern cutting books place the shoulder seam too far back. By doing so, they ignore this important principle. I have thoroughly elaborated on this in Lesson 27 - Shoulder Theory. Watch and learn.
If you place the shoulder seam too far back, it will not sit on the apex of the shoulders.
The apex of the shoulders is the highest surface area of the shoulders. It starts at the neck point and stops at the shoulder point. It's where you must place your final shoulder seam.
Diagram 1 shows a sectional view of the human neck viewed from above.
Most drafts locate the shoulder seam as marked in red.
The correct position is marked in green. The red and green lines are slightly offset to compare them easier.
The green version has its neck point half way up the neck. The shoulder point is also higher, resulting in a squarer shoulder angle. This does not automatically mean that the pattern is made for square shoulders. Here it just means that the back shoulder seam sits more forward. This aligns it with the natural forward shape of most shoulders.
You can accurately determine the final position of the shoulder seam during fittings. If you position the neck and shoulder points correctly, you automatically have the shoulder seam in the right place.
When your shoulder seam is not on the highest point of the entire shoulder line, you fail to cover the shoulders so to reflect their complex beauty. You will also fail to give the necessary comfort that your client needs for free arm movement. You fail to fit the shoulders in principle.
How to Get the Shoulder Seam in the Right Place at the Neck
First calculate Half Neck Width Measure
Take a neck circumference measure. This measure must be taken over a closed and snug shirt collar. A shirt collar increases the neck circumference measure and gives a more accurate result since the jacket is likely going to be worn over a shirt.
Divide the neck circumference by 3.14 aka π (pi). This gives you the diameter of the neck circle as show in Diagram 1.
Divide the diameter of the neck circle by 2 to get the neck radius aka Half Neck Width Measure.
Drafting the Neck Circle
Refer to Diagram 2 above when following these 3 steps.
Use Half Neck Width Measure to mark Neck Width from Nape.
Use Half Neck Width Measure + Seam Allowance to mark Neck Point. By adding the Seam Allowance to the Half Neck Width Measure, you include the shoulder seam to your pattern.
Draw Neck Curve. Don't fuss about its shape too much. Just make it smooth.
4 Important Points to Consider If You Want These Instructions to Work
The neck width will change during fittings. Shirt collars, turtle necks and your client’s general posture will influence the final neck width. Do not assume this one formula to count for every variable that can influence the size and shape of your neck circle.
Your under-collar might alter the width and shape of the back neck This is explained and demonstrated in Lesson 31 - How to Baste an Under-Collar. Watch and learn.
Your chosen construction method will influence the final pattern. The correct technique for close fitted necks is to stretch the neck circle along with the back shoulder. This is fully explained and demonstrated in Lesson 27 - Shoulder Theory. Watch all 3 Parts.
You are used to seeing shallow back necks. This draft will give you a result that "looks wrong" because of its high neck point position. Don't be fooled by appearances.
Fitting shoulders is not limited to a few seams. You are working with surfaces. The construction of your canvas is equally important. Lesson 13 - Canvas Construction Theory is a great place to start.
The shoulder angle can change depending on the slope of the shoulders. I will cover this separately in another post.
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